@font-face{font-family:Barlow;src:url('/fonts/barlow-condensed-bold.ttf') format('truetype');font-weight:700;font-display:swap}
:root{--navy:#252b31;--paper:#faf8f1;--orange:#695315;--light-orange:#edcf68;--muted:#53606c;--line:#cbd0d2;--soft:#f0eee5;--display:Barlow,'Arial Narrow',sans-serif;color-scheme:light;scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:2rem;scrollbar-color:var(--muted) var(--paper)}
*{box-sizing:border-box}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--navy);font:1.05rem/1.65 Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif}::selection{background:#edcf68;color:var(--navy)}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:.24em;text-decoration-thickness:1px}a:hover{color:var(--orange)}:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--orange);outline-offset:5px}h1,h2,h3,.brand{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;line-height:1.02}h1,h2,h3{margin:0;text-wrap:balance}p{margin:0 0 1.1rem;max-width:70ch}.wrap{width:min(1240px,calc(100% - 96px));margin-inline:auto}.skip{position:fixed;top:-100px;left:20px;padding:12px 20px;background:var(--paper);z-index:5}.skip:focus{top:12px}.masthead{background:var(--navy);color:var(--paper)}.topbar{min-height:112px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:28px}.brand{font-size:2rem;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}.brand span{display:block;margin-top:9px;font: .78rem/1.3 Arial,sans-serif;letter-spacing:.03em}.topbar nav{display:flex;gap:30px;font-size:.9rem}.masthead a:hover{color:var(--light-orange)}.masthead :focus-visible{outline-color:var(--light-orange)}.introduction{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.25fr 1fr;gap:72px;padding-block:64px 56px;align-items:center}.intro-copy h1{font-size:clamp(3.7rem,6.5vw,6rem);letter-spacing:-.02em;margin-bottom:28px}.lead{font-size:1.45rem;line-height:1.4;max-width:26ch}.intro-copy>p:not(.lead){max-width:48ch}.button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:35px;padding:14px 22px;margin-top:14px;background:var(--orange);color:white;font-weight:bold;text-decoration:none}.button:hover{background:var(--navy);color:white}.button span{font-size:1.4rem;line-height:1}.hero-photo{margin:0}.hero-photo img{width:100%;height:505px;display:block;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 10%}.hero-photo figcaption{font-size:.74rem;line-height:1.5;margin-top:12px;color:var(--muted);max-width:60ch}.orientation{background:var(--navy);color:var(--paper)}.orientation .wrap{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;padding-block:22px}.orientation p{font-family:var(--display);font-size:1.65rem;margin:0}.orientation a{color:var(--light-orange);font-size:.9rem}.guide-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:240px minmax(0,1fr);gap:80px;padding-block:72px 96px}.contents nav{position:sticky;top:32px}.contents h2{font:700 .9rem/1.5 Arial,sans-serif;margin-bottom:18px}.contents nav a{display:block;padding:8px 0;font-size:.94rem}.contents>p{font-size:.84rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:34px;max-width:25ch}.reading{max-width:780px}.reading section+section{margin-top:85px}.reading h2{font-size:clamp(2.6rem,4vw,3.7rem);margin-bottom:24px}.reading h3{font-size:2.1rem}.note{background:var(--soft);padding:18px 22px;font-size:.94rem;margin-block:28px}.place{padding:30px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.place-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:20px;margin-bottom:18px}.place-heading span{color:var(--orange);font-size:.85rem;white-space:nowrap}.place-links{display:flex;gap:16px 30px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:.9rem;font-weight:bold;margin-top:22px}.place-links span{margin-left:6px}.seasons{margin:30px 0}.seasons>div{display:grid;grid-template-columns:150px 1fr;gap:30px;padding:24px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}dt{font-family:var(--display);font-size:1.7rem;line-height:1.2}dd{margin:0}.watch-list{padding-left:1.2rem;margin-block:28px}.watch-list li{margin:0 0 18px;padding-left:6px}.watch-list li::marker{color:var(--orange)}details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:20px 0}summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:bold}details p{margin:16px 0 2px}.fine{font-size:.83rem;color:var(--muted)}.sources{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:42px}.sources h2{font-size:2.8rem}footer{background:var(--navy);color:var(--paper);padding:48px 0}.footer-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr 1fr 1fr;gap:40px}footer p{font-size:.85rem;margin-top:12px}footer .fine{color:#c8d6dc;margin-top:0}footer a:hover{color:var(--light-orange)}footer :focus-visible{outline-color:var(--light-orange)}.missing{padding-block:100px;min-height:60vh}.missing h1{font-size:4rem;margin-bottom:25px}
@media(max-width:1000px){.wrap{width:calc(100% - 56px)}.introduction{gap:40px}.hero-photo img{height:470px}.guide-layout{grid-template-columns:190px minmax(0,1fr);gap:40px}.topbar nav{gap:18px}.place-heading{display:block}.place-heading span{display:block;margin-top:10px}.footer-grid{gap:25px}.seasons>div{grid-template-columns:125px 1fr;gap:20px}}
@media(max-width:700px){.wrap{width:calc(100% - 40px)}.topbar{display:block;padding-block:24px}.brand{font-size:1.85rem}.topbar nav{margin-top:24px;gap:20px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:.83rem}.introduction{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:32px;padding-block:38px}.intro-copy h1{font-size:4rem}.lead{font-size:1.3rem}.hero-photo img{height:380px;object-position:50% 10%}.orientation .wrap{display:block;padding-block:20px}.orientation p{font-size:1.5rem;margin-bottom:8px}.guide-layout{display:block;padding-block:36px 60px}.contents{margin-bottom:45px;padding-bottom:28px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.contents nav{position:static}.contents nav a{display:inline-block;margin-right:20px}.contents>p{max-width:60ch;margin-top:18px;margin-bottom:0}.reading section+section{margin-top:60px}.reading h2{font-size:2.8rem}.reading h3{font-size:2rem}.seasons>div{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:10px}.place-links{display:grid;gap:16px}.footer-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:26px}.footer-grid p{margin-bottom:0}.button{gap:25px}.missing h1{font-size:3rem}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){:root{scroll-behavior:auto}}

.arrow{width:22px;height:22px;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1.8;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;flex:none}.arrow.external{width:14px;height:14px;vertical-align:-2px;margin-left:4px}

/* UK guide: slate plumage, warm breast tones and yellow highlights. */
.button{background:#edcf68;color:#252b31}.button:hover{background:#252b31;color:#faf8f1}.topbar nav{flex-wrap:wrap}.home-guides{padding-bottom:80px}.home-guides section{padding:42px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.home-guides h2{font-size:3rem;margin-bottom:20px}.home-guides h3{font-size:2rem;margin-bottom:12px}.region-links{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:0 30px}.region-links a{padding:17px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:1.15rem}.editorial-links{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:36px}.article-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:220px minmax(0,760px);gap:64px;padding-block:56px 80px}.article-layout .contents{font-size:.95rem}.article-layout .contents a{display:block;padding:7px 0}.article-layout .contents p{margin:28px 0 8px;font-weight:bold}.prose h1,.directory h1{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,5vw,4.6rem);margin-bottom:24px}.deck{font-size:1.25rem;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:36px}.prose h2{font-size:2.25rem;margin:42px 0 18px}.prose h3{font-size:1.8rem;margin:28px 0 12px}.prose li{margin-bottom:10px}.prose table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:.95rem}.prose th,.prose td{padding:14px 10px;text-align:left;vertical-align:top;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.prose a{overflow-wrap:anywhere}.review-date{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted);border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:24px;margin-top:40px}.directory{max-width:1060px;padding-block:56px 80px}.region-list{margin:40px 0}.region-list article{display:grid;grid-template-columns:280px 1fr;gap:32px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:28px 0}.region-list h2{font-size:2rem}.region-list p{margin:0}
@media(max-width:800px){.article-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px}.article-layout .contents{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding-bottom:20px;margin-bottom:0}.article-layout .contents a{display:inline-block;margin-right:18px}.article-layout .contents p{margin-top:16px}.region-list article{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:12px}.region-links{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}.editorial-links{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:24px}.prose table{font-size:.85rem}.prose th,.prose td{padding:10px 5px}.topbar{flex-wrap:wrap;padding-block:24px}}
@media(max-width:420px){.region-links{grid-template-columns:1fr}.prose table{table-layout:fixed;overflow-wrap:anywhere}}
@media print{@page{size:A4;margin:15mm}body{background:white;color:black;font-size:10pt;line-height:1.4}.masthead,footer,.skip,.contents,.review-date{display:none!important}.wrap{width:100%}.article-layout{display:block;padding:0}.prose h1{font-size:25pt}.prose h2{font-size:15pt;margin:16px 0 8px}.prose .deck{font-size:11pt;margin-bottom:14px}.prose p{margin-bottom:8px}.prose li{margin-bottom:4px}a{color:black;text-decoration:none}h1,h2,h3{break-after:avoid}li{break-inside:avoid}.print-sheet .prose>p:first-of-type+ p{display:none}}